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IFSC Climbing World Cup Moscow 2019 - Bouldering Finals

International Federation of Sport Climbing
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For the bouldering stage, route setters quickly raised the bar very high only allowing 7 tops in the entire Semi-Finals, creating a real challenge for those wanting to advance to the finals.
The finals were a different story. In order for the athletes to have even reached the podium they would have needed to top all 4 problems. Even topping 3 problems like Futaba ITO (JPN), Jessica PILZ (AUT) and Lucka RAKOVEC (SLO) wouldn’t have been enough, all coming out at the bottom with a rank of 6, 5 and 4 respectively. Lucka, 17 years old, was very impressive for her first IFSC World Cup including 3 flashes!
A close race between Fanny GIBERT (FRA) and Shauna COXSEY (GBR) was particularly intense as they tied in the finals (4T4z 6 6), but Shauna ultimately coming out on top due to her first-place finish in the Semis.
As in Meiringen, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) looked powerful and confident. She flashed all 4 problems and won her 2nd consecutive gold medal in the 2019 competition season.
Her compatriot, Jernej KRUDER finished almost as well with 4 tops (“only” 2 flashes) winning himself a gold medal. Adam ONDRA (CZE) missed his chance to win a second gold medal without topping M4.
Yoshiyuki OGATA (JPN) didn’t even reach the zone in M4, but still managed to end the competition on the 3rd step of the podium.
With 2 tops and 3 zones, Anze PEHARC (SLO) finished the competition with his best performance in an IFSC World Cup.
All the information about the event on:
www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=7926
About IFSC:
The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
About the Channel:
The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
World up...Keep climbing!
Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
Facebook: facebook.com/sportclimbing
Twitter: twitter.com/IFSClimbing
SLvid: slvid.net/u-ifscchannel
LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/international-federation-of-sport-climbing

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14. apr. 2019

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Moj seznam predvajanja
Poznejše gledanje
Komentarjev 135
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
Anyone got a time stamp for when Jan Hoyer 1 arm dynos his way from the starting hold to the finish?
Doctor ibanez
Doctor ibanez Pred 2 dnevi
I think both sex sould climb the same rutes.
Tibuwi
Tibuwi Pred 3 dnevi
Route setters can never be sure how hard a rout will be for the climbers. Women were insanely strong as well!
stanleygqm
stanleygqm Pred 3 dnevi
Time to find a new job camera man
Karan Sindhwani
Karan Sindhwani Pred 4 dnevi
amazing comp. too bad about the ladies, but its hard to predict after such a tough semis
Timo Arnold
Timo Arnold Pred 5 dnevi
Puhhh Adam Ondra is still human
Thomas Pham
Thomas Pham Pred 5 dnevi
I want Adam Ondra to scream like he does out doors. That'll be epic. Try hard!!!
Heven1o
Heven1o Pred 6 dnevi
Love how she says, Comon Jessie
Rock Steady
Rock Steady Pred 6 dnevi
1st place trophy looks like its a 4th place (1:28:30) hehehe i can imagine Janja showing it to someone and that someone thinking "Humm are you sure you didnt get 4th?" hehehehe
Cacovangor
Cacovangor Pred 6 dnevi
Utterly disappointed with the set for the women for not displaying the strength and capacity of the athletes. This seemed more an exhibition than a championship...
Schmetterling
Schmetterling Pred 6 dnevi
Cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon uuuuuhhhhhhhhh cmon yeah?
Truth Matters
Truth Matters Pred 7 dnevi
c'mon ! thats gonna haunt me for long time..did anybody tell her the climbers cant hear her ?
Truth Matters
Truth Matters Pred 7 dnevi
who is the female commentator? annoying !
Truth Matters
Truth Matters Pred 5 dnevi
+Yann Lisicki thanks..I hope she wont be commenting any soon :D
Yann Lisicki
Yann Lisicki Pred 5 dnevi
Katja Kadic
Truth Matters
Truth Matters Pred 6 dnevi
+Schmetterling no shit sherlock..i wouldnt guess that in a million years :D
Schmetterling
Schmetterling Pred 6 dnevi
Ex pro
Jonas Joha Johanson
Jonas Joha Johanson Pred 7 dnevi
It's such a shame that professionals who excel in climbing are forced to rely on RedBull's money to earn their livings. Just wait till they convert climbing to some sort of circus aka "extreme sport" where only the person who does the most extreme and dangerous stuff wins. In a perfect world a professional climber could make a living from their profession just like any other football, soccer, tennis or golf player. I really hope the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo will make climbing a bit more public. It's time for those people to make some money during their time as a professional climber. At least enough to build a live on later on.
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
Has to make money in order to pay the athletes.
DeathMonkeyRacer
DeathMonkeyRacer Pred 7 dnevi
Regarding the women's route setting, the boulders being too easy can still make for an interesting final as it is then more important to flash them. The main frustration for me is that the last two boulders were essentially the same moves. Still enjoyable round overall I felt.
Marika Svensson
Marika Svensson Pred 7 dnevi
Is it really only janja that uses the "signature move"?
Moonti
Moonti Pred 6 dnevi
It's a move to cut down momentum after a dyno and pretty much all climbers do it but Janja has a habit to raise her leg really high when doing it hence it being her "signature move"
Master Propper
Master Propper Pred 7 dnevi
I know the girl in the booth is no professional commentator, and maybe I wouldn't do a much better job, but someone should have told her to refrain from cheering on the climbers while commentating. It's super super repetitive, super annoying, and even interrupts the absolutely professional and great commentary of Charlie Boscoe. COME ON FANNY, COME ON LUCKA, COME ON JESSE, COME ON JANJA, COME ON SHAUNA - NICE! ... not.
Liam Fox
Liam Fox Pred 7 dnevi
10:39 Adam Ondra's like wtf
Clayton Davey
Clayton Davey Pred 8 dnevi
Glad we have a guest co caster to repeat the words "come on" and "nice" 25 times per minute. Really adds to my enjoyment of the event.
Aaron Flynn
Aaron Flynn Pred 8 dnevi
ADAM ONDRA - 01:48:11, 01:59:45, 02:23:00, 02:44:50
Pius tus
Pius tus Pred 8 dnevi
Routesetting for the women just cannot happen on a professional level. .... It is not only really disappointing to watch, but foremost disrespectful towards the female climbers
Дмитрий Арсентьев
3:05:17 nice russian socks! Wonder if anyone told Jernej what's written there :)
Malte Peters
Malte Peters Pred 8 dnevi
Quote: Japanese, they are all just so good... and there is so many of them. Lol
Austin Lokey
Austin Lokey Pred 8 dnevi
What about Chon, Narasaki, & the rest of the high placing Japanese men team?
Funclimb
Funclimb Pred 7 dnevi
Narasaki didn't go to Moscow.
Thomas Koller
Thomas Koller Pred 8 dnevi
Please edit the start out where nothing's happening. And please don't put the logo on top of the watch. Would make the videos much more professional. Like the rest and the commenting.
Rob C
Rob C Pred 8 dnevi
Charlie, just saying I found your commentary a bit annoying for this round. "perfect start" - it wasn't flash, therefore it wasn't perfect. "he learnt a bit about the move" - no, he had a high foot the first time so it was a different move. Just sounded a bit amateurish really, sorry.
Schmetterling
Schmetterling Pred 6 dnevi
Any more amateurish than the female commentator
Blaise Zak
Blaise Zak Pred 8 dnevi
Ondra: 1:48:28 2:00:00 2:23:15 2:45:11
dawn brown
dawn brown Pred 8 dnevi
The route setting made this final rather boring to watch... way too easy I'm afraid.
cheznikos
cheznikos Pred 8 dnevi
worst final in the history of bouldering wc due to the route setters. Also it would have been nice to find out where all the japanese are. I guess they made a smart choice skipping that one. Imagine how many more boring tops we would have to endure then!
Mister Anderson
Mister Anderson Pred 8 dnevi
2:26:11 Kruder wtf how
SnowmansApartment
SnowmansApartment Pred 8 dnevi
wt... was so surprised at the end xD
KK
KK Pred 8 dnevi
Climbing starts at 29:20
mog10e
mog10e Pred 8 dnevi
WOMEN Ito Rakovec Pilz Gibert Garnbret Coxsey SCORES W1 29:27 31:27 35:31 39:40 40:54 42:36 44:24 W2 44:56 46:09 47:34 48:49 50:07 51:18 52:44 W3 55:02 59:25 1:00:36 1:04:36 1:07:33 1:09:04 1:11:28 W4 1:11:46 1:14:00 1:15:12 1:17:00 1:18:24 1:19:56 1:22:24* MEN Kruder Timonov Ogata Peharc Kawamata Ondra SCORES M1 1:30:50 1:32:44 1:37:00 1:40:00 1:43:44 1:48:15 1:50:03 M2 1:50:39 1:51:58 1:53:58 1:55:13 1:57:27 1:59:45 2:01:02 M3 2:03:10 2:07:10 2:11:22 2:14:12 2:18:40 2:23:00 2:25:59 M4 2:26:13 2:27:41 2:31:56 2:36:18 2:40:38 2:44:52 2:49:21 ----- * Shauna Coxseys final ranking was second not third (listen 1:31:29)
Juan Gª Chicano Muñoz
Pretty bad audiovisual production...
Sean Harris
Sean Harris Pred 6 dnevi
I do not agree, can you explain your opinion ??
Archie Croft
Archie Croft Pred 8 dnevi
For the routesetting, do they have men setting out the men's routes and women for the women's routes? I'm new to this so I'm not sure how it works. Thanks.
FinalFr3ak
FinalFr3ak Pred 8 dnevi
Yeah they do. Problem is there are few, if any women setting routes for the championship.
Elias Hardt
Elias Hardt Pred 8 dnevi
You can hear the pain in Charlie’s voice after the three flashes of W2
Mikhail Podobin
Mikhail Podobin Pred 8 dnevi
а наш то обосрался и конкретно причём!
John McMahon
John McMahon Pred 8 dnevi
Such an amazing women's semi-final followed by a real dull women's final. The commentators always say that these top fests are more interesting for the viewers: they are not. I don't mind it when a boulder does not get topped, as long as it gets unlocked (like Fanny Gibert on women's 4 in the semis - obviously figured out the boulder, but just was not quite able to stick the last move). P.S. A note to the commentators and route setters: looking through the comments it appears most people like the boulders to be a real challenge over real easy. Charlie says that a boulder that does not get topped is "over-cooked", but as long as people get close to topping it, then I don't think there are many people who would agree with him.
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
IMO the perfect boulder is one that gets topped by only one or two of the climbers. That should be the goal, of course you can't always succeed but that should be the gold standard.
Grotop
Grotop Pred 8 dnevi
Adam Ondra 1:48:09 1:59:40 2:22:57 2:44:47
Hablo
Hablo Pred 2 dnevi
Thanks so much!
Akalight lol
Akalight lol Pred 8 dnevi
the last one is soo fucking sad, and ty for the links
Stefan
Stefan Pred 8 dnevi
i love you
Brent Spillane
Brent Spillane Pred 8 dnevi
Terrible commentary.
Theaddekalk
Theaddekalk Pred 9 dnevi
ondra going no edge shoe,, noice
Theaddekalk
Theaddekalk Pred 6 dnevi
+Cacovangor ye I know they have several different, saw that now also . But it's not often a boulderer uses the no edge shoe. So I thought it was nice. Thanks for your info though
Cacovangor
Cacovangor Pred 6 dnevi
Theaddekalk Adam brings both Solutions and Futuras to the mat, using the Solutions primarily except when reading a crux as including more friction from body position. Both are built on the same last with similar characteristics except thickness on the sole and tensioning system with the heel cup which makes the Futura more reliable standing or heeling from volumes.
Alfonso Jimenez
Alfonso Jimenez Pred 9 dnevi
..disappointing final routes for women, the same than last year in the same place.
Duzurix Duzurix
Duzurix Duzurix Pred 9 dnevi
Imagine getting 4 tops and beign barely on podium xD
Ni_Cò
Ni_Cò Pred 9 dnevi
Janja
Luke Gowen
Luke Gowen Pred 9 dnevi
Is anyone else having huge lag in this video?!?!
Iki10
Iki10 Pred 9 dnevi
Men's 1:30:17 Men, Boulder 1 Jernej Kruder 1:30:55 Vadim Timonov 1:32:43 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:37:07 Anze Peharc 1:40:02 Rei Kawamata 1:43:42 Adam Ondra 1:48:15 Men, Standings 1 1:50:03 Men, Boulder 2 Jernej Kruder 1:50:35 Vadim Timonov 1:51:57 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:53:55 Anze Peharc 1:55:12 Rei Kawamata 1:57:25 Adam Ondra 1:59:43 Men, Standings 2 2:01:02 Men, Boulder 3 Jernej Kruder 2:03:18 Vadim Timonov 2:07:10 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:11:20 Anze Peharc 2:14:10 Rei Kawamata 2:18:19 Adam Ondra 2:23:00 Men, Standings 3 2:25:53 Men, Boulder 4 Jernej Kruder 2:26:15 Vadim Timonov 2:27:50 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:31:50 Anze Peharc 2:36:16 Rei Kawamata 2:40:38 Adam Ondra 2:44:50 Men, Standings Final 2:49:21
catie lee
catie lee Pred 9 dnevi
Where are miho and akiyo??
plancked
plancked Pred 8 dnevi
Akiyo is skipping this one for training reasons, and Miho has a shoulder injury.
riricky815
riricky815 Pred 9 dnevi
catie lee heard that from semi final
riricky815
riricky815 Pred 9 dnevi
catie lee commentator said one of them has shoulder injury if I didnt misheard that
james64ibm
james64ibm Pred 9 dnevi
1:18:44 Janja simply ignoring holds to give herself at least a bit of a challenge.
Climbing with Kai
Climbing with Kai Pred 8 dnevi
She did not ignore it but used a different sequence ;)using it eventually. Fanny Gibert did ignore a hold.
cheznikos
cheznikos Pred 9 dnevi
Pretty bad for the men too, deciding on just one Boulder. What a waste that was
cheznikos
cheznikos Pred 7 dnevi
+FinalFr3ak why are you humiliating yourself like that? have you even watched?
FinalFr3ak
FinalFr3ak Pred 8 dnevi
?! What? How is that bad if the last problem decides who wins? That is the best you can hope for? It made it really exciting to watch O__o
Juhani Kuronen
Juhani Kuronen Pred 9 dnevi
After hard and varying semi finals for women I was afraid this might happen. I rather watch the athletes struggle for the top than count on who did NOT flash all of them.
Juhani Kuronen
Juhani Kuronen Pred 7 dnevi
+bolsachem Probably want to make sure they don't have to use qualification round count backs. But some logic would work for finals. The best final boulders were in the world championships last year. Janja topped 2 and got 1 zone, and I think no one else even got a top. Rule of thumb: If in doubt, make them bit harder.
bolsachem
bolsachem Pred 8 dnevi
i noticed it happened last year too. semis were harder and finals. and attempts matter way more
Kumato Bazha
Kumato Bazha Pred 9 dnevi
Really enjoyed the female commentator! 😁👌
Kumato Bazha
Kumato Bazha Pred 9 dnevi
And male haha
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca Pred 9 dnevi
After such an interesting semis for the women what a disappointing final with flashes by most athletes on some good looking problems but so undercooked for top climbers. Don't understand what the route setters were thinking when they conjured these one's up :\
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca Pred 5 dnevi
+Obadiah Jessup That's true in many senses. Yet these competitions are not meant to please people but to test athletes abilities and in that regard the female problems hardy challenged them...
Obadiah Jessup
Obadiah Jessup Pred 5 dnevi
No one is ever happy
Katzen33
Katzen33 Pred 9 dnevi
They should've taken out a couple holds from the women's routes 😂 But seriously it kinda sucks having so little in between 3rd-1st
greengraycolor
greengraycolor Pred 9 dnevi
Camera man, please show entire problem during observation. Please!
Philipp !
Philipp ! Pred 8 dnevi
and climber while climbing😂😥
Lea Weinrich
Lea Weinrich Pred 9 dnevi
Not a big fan of the female commentator. Main comment being "come on"
wherebsara
wherebsara Pred 3 dnevi
I am sure she is a wonderful climber and a great person and no doubt she had no idea she was going to be asked to comment. But it was a little hard to watch with repeated "come on". This is in no way a negative comment to the young lady commenting just constructive feedback to help the show, thanks for the upload and great show!
Bloxeh
Bloxeh Pred 7 dnevi
My impression was that she was struggling with finding words in english due to nervousness. I assume she has a lot interesting things to say, just needs to get more practice.
Sam Staps
Sam Staps Pred 8 dnevi
+Pecan Pie Gamba, gamba! 😂😂
Pecan Pie
Pecan Pie Pred 8 dnevi
Agree. Not the best choice. Some climbers are fantastic at providing a more in depth insight and analysis from a professional angle. Here that insight consisted of "come on", "gamba", "nice", "yes", "amazing", "mmm" etc.
SirGabe
SirGabe Pred 8 dnevi
Yea she's making me anxious... She makes a much better fan than commentator
Tamás Varga
Tamás Varga Pred 9 dnevi
Overall very good quality of broadcasting, I much enjoy the speakers too. One important request, please please please show the results board every time when climbers are leaving and entering. Thanks in advance
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
+Miro Trifonov Then she shouldn't be commentating.
Miro Trifonov
Miro Trifonov Pred 7 dnevi
+JJ Sevins She's not a comentator, she's a competitor and the people climbing are probably her firends :)
JJ Sevins
JJ Sevins Pred 8 dnevi
Charlie Boscoe is great as always. His female co-commentator was annoying because she wanted to cheer people on "c'mon... c'monnn... nice! c'mon!" which is not a commentary. She says "c'mon over 200 times in 30 mins... wtf"
Lukas Gehring
Lukas Gehring Pred 9 dnevi
the ifsc logo blocks the clock.
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
Ego.
timcthefilmguy
timcthefilmguy Pred 8 dnevi
completely dependent on your screen size
dimogiorgos
dimogiorgos Pred 9 dnevi
Such a terrible routesetting for women. Too easy boulders and the last two almost identical.
R.B.
R.B. Pred 2 dnevi
+David Murray This aint a local competition. It's WORLD CLASS. Routesetting should also be world class.
Jonas Joha Johanson
Jonas Joha Johanson Pred 7 dnevi
Well, all is said about the difficulty problems of the women problems. That being said, who else was surprised about the style of climbing we saw? I expected some sort of this so-called "Tokyo" or "Japanese" style. I though we'll have to suffer some more of this dynamic run and jump parkour like type of climbing. I appreciate the change though. Possibly the criticism of the past had some effect after all.
Polly Strott
Polly Strott Pred 8 dnevi
Especially compared to the semifinal problems!
Marina C.Ll.
Marina C.Ll. Pred 8 dnevi
Completely agree, I’m quite disappointed considering we’re talking about a world cup. But the athletes managed to pull off an amazing show nevertheless
dimogiorgos
dimogiorgos Pred 8 dnevi
+David Murray I hope you understand that everyone is entitled into his opinion. Many people agree that the women problems were really bad. You can disagree with that and it is respectable. However, your irony makes you a moron. I am not a route setter but I can always express my opinion about the routesetting of a world cup event.
cheznikos
cheznikos Pred 9 dnevi
That route setter really messed it up for the ladies. Too bad
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton Pred 9 dnevi
M3 kinda reminds of the boulder problem that Honnold free solo’d on El Cap. Obviously, it’s not exactly the same, but it’s similar
Michael Scytale
Michael Scytale Pred 9 dnevi
Worst final ever, do you think only flash is cool to watch??? Not for me it's so boring ...
Equationist
Equationist Pred 8 dnevi
+cheznikos While difficulty can be hard to gauge, it's weird that they set W3 and W4 with almost identical dynos.
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca Pred 9 dnevi
+Daniel Horton A world cup route setter knows well the world class athletes. They know what these outstanding climbers are capable of...
cheznikos
cheznikos Pred 9 dnevi
+Daniel Horton bullshit. Terrible route setting. Worst I can remember. Identical moves, too easy, not any classical type of moves, just some nasty bad stuff here.
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton Pred 9 dnevi
Michael Scytale as a setter, you can’t know how the climbers will fare. It’s pure chance. It wasn’t their intent to make it easier than the semis. In fact, these were likely made to be harder. It just so happened that they suited the climbers in the final. Quit bitchin
Tactical Chunder
Tactical Chunder Pred 9 dnevi
Men’s was pretty good this time round. Women’s was shocking. Needs to be much harder.
Weight Loss Dietitian
I can't be the only one that likes my conment
Stefan S
Stefan S Pred 9 dnevi
nice "conment" you have there
Перваяя Домофонная
Шона, спасибо что вернулась. Shauna the best! 😍
D KR
D KR Pred 9 dnevi
2x Slovenian win. That’s really, really impressive. There must be some monkey gene in Slovenian DNA others don’t have or something...
Din Du
Din Du Pred 8 dnevi
It's a small country of 2 million Slavs but they put a heavy emphasis on fitness and sports.
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton Pred 9 dnevi
Racist
jankoup
jankoup Pred 9 dnevi
Kruder is a GOD !
Loreto Guazo Covas
Loreto Guazo Covas Pred 9 dnevi
The live streaming is going better and better ! thanks for it !
Florian Strasser
Florian Strasser Pred 9 dnevi
ondra just shredding
Dante Bonaccorso
Dante Bonaccorso Pred 9 dnevi
Climbing start 29:30
Naprej
EVERY BURGER KING EVER
5:47
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